Abstract representation of Siegeworks |
You may recognise
the objects in the picture – they are wooden blocks from a game which goes by
various names – the very big garden version is called (I think) Jenga – I only played it once, and I
wasn’t very good at it, though the beer was good, I recall. I subsequently bought
four miniature sets, very cheaply, from a local general store, just to get my
hands on the blocks.
You see, what these
are really is siege trench sections. Yes, I know they don’t look very realistic,
but they are what I have available. I am reminded of a very old schoolboy joke
about survivors of a plane crash in the Tunisian desert searching for food; the
bad news was that the only organic material they found was camel dung – the
good news was that there was a lot of it. So my trench sections might look
rubbish, but I have more than you would believe.
Since my siege
gaming is still in its extended prototyping stage, and since I am a lazy
beggar, I have stuck with these dreadful lumps of wood on the grounds that it
wasn’t worth splashing out money or effort on anything better until I have a
game which works. Disadvantages, of course, are multiple – for a start:
(a) It’s not very motivating or interesting
to build trenches which look this ridiculous
(b) Recruited
players – particularly younger ones – may find themselves building odd shapes
with the blocks during the game, to create a welcome distraction
(c) Etc
I am starting to
think seriously about more acceptable trenches. Whatever I do has to be cheap,
simple, and easily stored. There are some splendid looking resin castings
around, but that is hardly a cheap option. I could scratch build something, but
I fear I am not very skilled at such things, and it would take me ages to
produce enough – and then I have to remember that all the scenery I ever
scratch built fell to pieces very quickly.
Somewhere, in an
old book, there is a suggestion for the use of triangular section hardwood
strip, cut and mitred to provide proper lengths and angles. That’s cheap and
storable, and would paint up OK, but it’s only a small step up from the Jenga
blocks. What else is there?
Well, the bold Mr
Kinch mentioned dado rail recently, and I had previously thought myself of
picture frame mouldings, so I have been having a bit of a look at what is on
the market, studying the websites of Wickes and a few specialist picture
framing suppliers. Some exotic stuff out there – nothing jumps out at me yet,
and I am starting to realize that I don’t even know very much about what a real
trench looked like, so I’ve started reading up on that, and I’m heading
backwards at a decent rate. If anyone would like to come round for a very large
game of miniature Jenga, I might be interested.
More on this
subject soon, I hope.
Subject 2 –
Varnish
Moss Troopers and friends, waiting to be de-shined |
I have become the
owner of a collection of ECW figures of the correct size – SHQ and
Tumbling Dice, mostly, plus some others I haven’t identified yet – which are
painted up and should be capable of being worked into my armies without a
life-changing effort. They were part of the (vast) collection of a chap in
Belfast who died recently, and my interest was kindled by the fact that they
contained numerous Scottish and Irish figures, which might give me an easy way
to expand my armies in such a way that I could have a bash at the campaigns of
Montrose.
I’ve received
about half of the new arrivals so far, and am somewhat shaken to see that the
flags and the organization of the units suggest that the previous owner had
them set up for – that’s right – the campaigns of Montrose. I’ll have to see
what comes in the second box, and there will be a lot of re-organising and
rebasing needed, but this is quite an exciting little development.
Only slight fly in
the ointment is that the figures are finished with a very heavy gloss varnish –
almost certainly an enamel-type varnish rather than an acrylic one, so I’ll
have some work to do calming this down a bit to match the rest of my forces.
I’ve been trying some pilot figures, to see how a wash in detergent followed by
a coat of matt acrylic works, and it looks promising. I was afraid that the
acrylic would just form into blobs, or wouldn’t cover properly, but it is
looking good. I’ll have to do a bit of extra detailing on the horses once they
are dulled down, but I am reassured that it is feasible.
So I’m busily reading
Start Reid’s booklets on the Scots armies, and am quite enthusiastic about the
potential of this little exercise. Again, you should hear more of this in due
course.
I have played a number of games that use blocks.
ReplyDeleteIt's not only younger players that find themselves building impromptu towers and such.
Following any good for idea's??
ReplyDeletehttp://steve-the-wargamer.blogspot.sk/2008/09/earthworks-and-redoubts.html
http://steve-the-wargamer.blogspot.com/2008/09/earthworks-and-redoubts-part-2.html
Thanks Steve - these are very interesting - I shall study them with care. I may be looking for a rather more down-market version, but the general principles look sound!
DeleteThe most accurate way to do trenches would be to take a chisel to your terrain boards/dining table but I'd be reluctant myself.
ReplyDeleteIf you would like to see triangular siege trench sections in action, both prototype and finished please refer to http://gameofmonth.blogspot.ca/search/label/siege
Thanks for this - very much - I missed these first time round - maybe I wasn't looking for them. I'll have a serious read and study the pictures.
DeleteI tried Steve's method years ago, and unless you are of a carpentry persuasion, it's slow, sweaty and sometimes bloody work. The florists' foamy stuff, or something like it - I use an insulation board that I found - is fast and easy, and because you cut the fronts freehand gives a pleasantly `hasty' effect.
ReplyDeleteMy method is to cut each piece to a similar section to Steve's quadrant moulding, and glue the bottom to card with enough room behind to place figures on. I then glue dried grass stems (you find them for free in roadsides or the garden - now is a good time to collect a thousand or so) horizontally to the back of the model with a vertical piece of stem every couple of inches. Then paint the whole model except the grass with PVA adhesive, and sprinkle with your favourite `rough ground' texture - I use John Innes No. 2 soil-based compost. Paint to taste.
Thanks for this - any tips for quick and cheap are mot welcome - I'll have a lot of this stuff to make, and I have less talent in the handicrafts department than you would believe. Scenic acceptability is going to just scrape a pass in my set-up, so off-the-shelf mouldings on a plywood base might be as sophisticated as I get. The John Innes is a nice rustic touch, though.
Delete