I was delighted to receive a very nice email from the daughter of Peter Gouldesbrough, the pioneer Edinburgh wargamer, whom I knew for a while around 1983-85. Peter was the subject of a post in this blog back in December 2017; his daughter had recently come across my post and was pleased with it as a personal recollection [phew!], and she wrote to thank me for my effort.
She also told me that, sadly, he passed away in 1988, at the age of only 70, which goes some way to explain how I lost touch with him so completely. As before, I publish this here only so that anyone who knew Peter can share this information.
Some of Peter's old soldiers came to light in Edinburgh a few years ago; to me, it all just confirms that, when it comes to toy soldiers, we really only get to look after them for a while.
I made a small breakthrough this morning. I was lying in bed, trying to raise the energy to switch off the radio news channel which was offering me the Message for Today from a member of our fine Government, and irritating the life out of me.
I was offended by the fact that the politician was not telling the truth, and obviously planned to get by on the fact that the electorate, being stupid enough to have voted them in, is undoubtedly also too stupid to spot that the Message for Today is mostly hogwash. So, I guess, I was mostly offended by the implicit assumption that I am too stupid to analyse what is being said.
And then it struck me. The politician is not speaking to me. She does not care about me at all; I am not one of the people she is interested in. Since I have the fine record of having voted for the losing side in every possible election, national or local, for the last 12 years (with the single exception of the Scottish Independence Referendum in 2014 - I nailed that one), and since, in our traditional first-past-the-post electoral system in the UK, I am not likely to have any effect on anything at all for the foreseeable future, I have decided that I shall withdraw my vote. I am not playing any more. I am done with democracy. They can, in fact, shove it. Whatever happens next, chaps, it will not be my fault. Thus I turned off the radio with a clear conscience, and emerged into a fine sunny morning to find something more useful to do.
Here I am, emerging:
There is no shortage of stuff to do on a Sunday - washing, sorting and putting out the recycling for Monday collection is a worthwhile thing to do, so I got that all done. Good.
Next I experimented a little with my breakfast toast, and came up with the following new concoction, which I can guarantee is an awful lot better than it sounds.
Wholemeal toast, spread with crunchy peanut butter, a smear of Marmite and a mashed banana (slightly over-ripe). Though I say so myself, this is an excellent start to the day. Recommended.
Good.
Lastly, I extracted this link from one of my online news-feeds. I am interested anyway, since I am doing a fair amount of thinking about Zoom sessions at present, but this presents some potential hazards of videoconferencing which I hadn't thought of before. The man in the video clip is interrupted during a business Zoom meeting when his office is invaded by a squirrel - there's a very good chance you've seen this before, but it made a big impression on me, and it is gratifyingly short.
The conspiracy theorists will suspect that it is unlikely that anyone would film their own Zoom sessions remotely, and that it must be fake, but I am pretty much convinced that this man really doesn't care for squirrels at all. Mind how you go.
***** Late Edit *****
I agree that the presentation of my new breakfast combo is a little tricky. Nouvelle Cuisine and mashed banana are uneasy fellows.
For those who think a little garnish would help, I suppose a sliced strawberry might be acceptable, though the special would have to be a sprinkling of M&Ms, I think. Ideally, this morning's banana could have been a little more gooey.
My WSS armies very largely use Les Higgins 20mm figures from the 1970s. That range provides a good choice of poses, but the one obvious shortfall as far as I am concerned is in the choice of general officers. In fact there is only one, so there is no choice at all; Higgins provided a very good officer, in tricorne and cuirass, carrying a baton. I've used a good many of these, painted up in all sorts of colours, to provide for my Austrian and Bavarian armies, but for the French and the British, whose generals rarely wore cuirasses over their coats, this pose doesn't really cut it.
Anyway, work has been proceeding on this, and I now have some new castings, which I've been itching to get some paint on. The challenge has been to provide a cuirass-free general who will sit nicely on a Les Higgins horse, and here is my first test paint effort.
This fellow is a rather conservatively-garbed French officer, as you will see, and I'm very pleased with him. My compliments to Frederico for his splendid sculpt. I'll prepare a few more of these in various uniforms, and this will provide a real step forward on the recruitment front. All sorts of parade photos will present themselves.
It's been a while since I was here. Very pleased to have received a unit of French dragoons, very nicely painted by Lee. These chaps are the regiment of La Vrillière, complete with their dismounted contingent (who normally wait on the bookshelf, until they are required).
I have done a couple of units of artillery in the past using only castings from Irregular Miniatures, and I use a lot of command figures from them, to look after my Les Higgins troops, but a complete unit of horse, all from Irregular, is unusual indeed. Irregular's slightly smaller horses are perfect for dragoons.
It took me a while to get around to doing the necessary conversions for this unit, but in fact it was pretty straightforward. The officer and standard bearer have hat transplants, and the drummer is a dragoon trooper, carved within an inch of his life to accept an old spare drum from Musket Miniatures (I think) which has been in my spares box for years. Decades, actually.
The dark red colour was officially described in the dress regs as incarnat, and it is correct that the officers of the regiment chose to wear bright scarlet instead. Quite right, too.
Thanks again Lee! There is another unit of French dragoons in the pipeline...
It seems remarkable, given the short timescale, but I'm now giving some thought to the "5th Army" in the Phase One plan for my WSS Project. It was always my intention to have big(gish) armies for France, Bavaria, Britain and Austria, and an additional small army to add to the Alliance forces.
Without thinking about it for too long, I always assumed that it should be a Dutch contingent. I even bought the Robert Hall books on the Dutch forces, and very nice they are, too.
I am basing these Phase One forces on the Schellenberg/Blenheim period - if necessary, to keep Bavaria in the war, they can go on fighting around the Danube area for as many years as I like. Fine. The problem, of course is that the actual Dutch army was a bit committed to the defence of Flanders at the time, therefore the support for Marlborough which they sent along (belatedly) consisted of other nations' troops fighting on the Dutch side.
So, now that I can afford the time to think about this, I decided that Your Actual Dutch may appear in a potential Phase Two, but the exact identity of my 5th Army is up for review.
For a while, the Hanoverians looked like a good bet, but there are a lot of red uniforms in there. In the interests of visual variety, which is important in the world of toy soldiers, I also rejected a couple of other possibilities who were mostly dressed in grey. What else was there?
My latest thinking, and I am quite pleased with this, suggests that Hesse-Kassel would be suitable. They had a nice little army, with the foot resplendent in dark blue. Accordingly, I now have another (rather smaller) Robert Hall book on order. Sadly, their horse seem mostly to have worn grey, but I can make it a rather paler grey than the French. Promising.
The 5th Army is planned at 4 units of foot, 2 of horse and a battery. I'm still tracking down the adventures of the artillery. I think they may not have turned up on the Danube - still reading about this. According to Charles Spencer's large (and flatulent) volume on Blenheim, Francis Hare's journal (another Marlborough fanzine) states that it was arranged with the Landgrave of Hesse-Kassel that his artillery should be sent to Mannheim, to meet up with Marlborough on his march to the Danube. Whether they turned up or not I don't know. If not, of course, it would do no harm at all to have an artillery unit from somewhere else. This is, after all, my own version of the war, so I can please myself.
Landgrave Karl I, in suitably warlike garb
So that's as far as I've got. Present thinking is my 5th Army will be the forces of the Landgrave, presumably commanded by the Hereditary Prince. I may, of course, change my mind next week.
There you go - the heatwave has moved on, my attic room is once again habitable, and a parcel of newly painted soldiers has arrived safely from Lee, who has done his customary excellent job (thanks again Lee). Any minute now I'll be back working on my hobbies!
Three battalions, which I have now based up and fitted with flags, all ready for the Duty Box. Here we have 2 battalions of Béarn and 1 of Toulouse. The castings are, as ever, 20mm Les Higgins/PMD, though the mounted officers are Irregular, albeit sitting on Higgins horses to keep the scale tight. The flags are by David of Not By Appointment, which I have had professionally laser-printed by Malcolm at Lothian Printers, in Dunbar.
This completes the French infantry for the official "first" (probably only) phase of my WSS project. I should probably do a new group photo, but I'm still waiting to get some general staff figures back from the caster (it can't be much longer, surely?).
Very dark, wet morning here, and my flash photo wasn't very successful; I've included a couple of photos from my official WSS Catalogue collection, to make up for it.
My attempts at Zoom wargaming have been frustrating me because of the poor quality video, and I've decided I should get on with sorting this out. I can hang on to my "Pro" level Zoom account, for which I think I'm paying £14 a month, and try to get the visuals up to a satisfactory standard, or else I should get realistic about the short-term prospects for Zoom (for me), and drop down to the freebie account level, which is good for short chats with small numbers of attendees.
My Zoom set up is as it was two and a half years ago; a brave attempt, largely improvised using ageing mobile devices, suspended from gaffer tape and sky hooks. Heath Robinson for the 2020s. Since the Zoom service has improved in sophistication during the period, and my broadband speed is now about 3.5 times what it was, I was hopeful that I might utilise some better tech at my own end and try to make a difference. If it doesn't work immediately, the prices of the kit have dropped a lot as the pandemic has receded, and there is a good chance that the infrastructure will continue to improve, to justify the investment.
As I mentioned in the previous post, I was very enthusiastic about - and pleased by - my early efforts with remote wargaming, and only gradually became aware that the video I was putting out for visiting generals was really rather crude, compared with how it looked at my end, and didn't necessarily offer a fulfilling experience.
So my new plan has been to use the two desktop machines in my den/office, which is adjacent to the room where my games are set up, and buy a couple of proper webcams.
At this point, I have to make public admission of a personal trait of mine; where others will go about things in a quiet, businesslike manner, and get good results with little or no fuss, I tend to thrash about and tell everyone about it, which makes it a bit less comfortable when it doesn't work! In the current situation, I think there may be one or two things I find out which may be of use to others having the same struggle, so I shall persist for the moment.
[At this point I must also acknowledge the advice and support I've had from Jon Freitag, who successfully runs games by Zoom which are very much like what I'd like to be hosting myself. I've visited Jon's set up and learned a lot, so I am truly grateful. A splendid fellow. Thank you, Jon.]
I purchased two Logitech StreamCams, which Amazon had on special offer, plus various bits and pieces - thread adaptors for microphone stands (I'll be using old mic stands to support the cameras) and what photographers apparently refer to as "ballheads" [which is a joy and a delight, since "ba'heid" is a children's insult of great and noble lineage in Glasgow] and a variety of USB cables. This stuff has all arrived now. Thus far things have gone pretty well, but I have learned a couple of things which might come in useful to others.
This is Camera B, at the East End of the table, on its microphone stand. The mic stands are very stable, and infinitely adjustable - also I have a few old ones of good quality, which is a selling point. The adjustment thing is maybe a mixed blessing - trying to get the same view twice might be a challenge! This is a trial placement, and the camera is 174cm from the floor, and 64cm horizontally from the centre of the table edge. [This is not unlike trying to get your car seat comfortably adjusted again after it's been serviced...]
This is the Logitech StreamCam. At the top of the mic stand there is a 3/8" to 1/4" thread converter, and on top of that is the tripod-style "ballhead" - the camera screws straight onto a little platform supported on a lockable ball joint
Webcams
They work "plug & play", but I had problems immediately since they both produced images which flickered badly. Not unreasonably, being American, these cameras, which are smart enough to correct flicker caused by phase difference between the image refresh rate and the natural flicker of electric lighting caused by the frequency of the mains supply, assumed that I would have a respectable 60Hz rather than our British (almost said "European" - forgive me, O Lord) 50Hz, and flickered their disappointment. Easily fixed - I downloaded some device management software and re-set the flicker correction to the right speed. Finding out what was needed was a lot more tricky online - this obviously is not a problem in American colleges. Here's a nice man I found on the Web to tell you how to do this:
A couple of comments:
(1) The program you need (if you are a Logitech user) is no longer called the Logitech Camera Settings Software, but is now called Logi Tune, available from the Logitech site. This will only be of relevance for this brand of camera, but the flicker problem must be generic, so there will be equivalents.
(2) The flicker is at its worst if you use LED lighting, which is relentlessly strobe-like. Before the cameras were re-adjusted, I practically eliminated it using old-fashioned heated coil bulbs, but I was delighted to be able to reinstate my fancy 2500 lumen daylight LEDs, which are dimmable and also run very cool (and avoid wasting energy - always a fine thing).
USB Cables - Length Limits
The problem in hand - a plan: to replace the current tangle of old mobile devices, I have invested in a couple of webcams, shown here as A and B. To give a scale for the project, the room containing the wargames table is 5m x 3m, the table 8ft (to 10ft4in) x 5ft. The positioning of the laptop mentioned below is shown (under the table)
OK. I have to connect one camera to each of the Mac and the PC in the adjacent room (my office/study/den/hidey-hole). My experimentation bore out what are the industry recommendations. My cameras each have a 5ft cable hardwired in, and I have a number of female-to-male USB extension cables, in lengths of 3ft and 10ft. A camera connected through a 10ft extension plus a 3ft extension to one of the desktop computers will work OK, but that is the limit. Beyond that, the camera is not detected at the computer, so 5 + 10 + 3 = 18ft becomes a new fundament of Nature, like Planck's Constant, the speed of light and the number of oatcakes in a pack of Nairn's Rough Scottish.
I can, as it happens, manage quite easily to connect Cam B to the Mac with an 18ft cable, but I have no chance of getting anywhere near the PC from Cam A without exceeding the limit.
Hmmm.
One solution might be the use of an active "repeater" cable - these are powered by a wall adaptor (5v), and include circuitry to amplify the signal, so can extend the overall range, which could be the answer. I may still try this, but I am not keen on solutions where I buy something in the hope it will work.
Or I could use my Windows laptop (which may actually be of higher spec than the PC), connected by a short USB cable to Cam A, instead. This is not as tidy, but it has proved to work, and I can place the laptop on a little coffee table, safely tucked under the main wargames table - once it is set up and connected to Zoom, I don't need to be able to see it. This is what I have adopted as my starting configuration.
Here's a screenshot of the view from Camera B in the position shown in the photos above. Camera A should be set up in the equivalent position at the other end. The picture resolution here is shown straight from the camera to my Mac, so it hasn't been anywhere near the Zoom server - I'll say something about picture quality when I've gained a little more experience of this configuration
That's more than enough for now. I have a lot to do, and try out, but there are no absolute stoppers yet. Ultimately, this stands or falls by the quality of the video output via Zoom. If that is unusable then I can either wait for the service to improve or leave the cameras to my kids. How can I lose? - all right - please don't comment on that bit.
***** Late Edit *****
OK - later the same evening, I've been checking over picture quality, comparing pictures that have not yet been sent to Zoom with incoming pictures from Zoom.
First off, I got a nasty fright. I was getting some pretty terrible, inconsistent results - blurring of images when I didn't expect this. I did a little reading, and tried switching off the autofocus on both cameras, using the Logi Tune app. Bingo - immediate improvement. Maybe the poor camera can't decide what to focus on, with a lot of little soldiers spread out. Maybe the level of lighting has an effect. No idea, but it seems much better with the autofocus off; I'll do some more reading tomorrow, and see what the terrible bad news is if you turn it off...
Anyway, with the autofocus put to sleep, and the manual focus set to minimum (deep focus), I did some screenshots, just for interest.
This is a screenshot of a picture coming in from the laptop (the remote participant, connected to Camera A), as seen on the Mac (which is the host here, attached to Camera B) - so this is "incoming", having been through Zoom
This is "outgoing", the view on the host's Mac from its own attached Camera B, which has not been to Zoom. You can't count buttons in either view, but the comparison isn't bad is it? I'll do some more work on this.
