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| High-profile local advertising - Barker & Dobson advert on the Liverpool Overhead Railway, mid 1950s. B&D's factory was just a few miles up the hill, in Everton |
I was born in Liverpool, as I keep
mentioning here (possibly as some form of excuse?), and grew up supporting
Liverpool Football Club. The other big club in the city, Everton, also has a long
and proud tradition. Since as a kid I spent some years forbidden to travel to
away matches, I often used to go with similarly paroled friends to Goodison
Park, to watch Everton when Liverpool were playing in far off places.
Nowadays, in the age of hate and trolling,
the Liverpool vs Everton thing can be as unpleasant as you might expect -
families banned from intermarrying etc - but in my youth things were a bit less
frenzied, and I grew up with a soft spot for Everton which I might be well
advised to keep quiet about now.
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| Everton FC - 1909 |
Everton, as you may or may not know, have
been known as "The Toffees" since what my dad's cousin Harold Shaw
used to refer to as "time immoral". Like all such traditions that we
absorb in early childhood, I never questioned it or wondered about its
background.
A bit of cod [personal] history. There were
an astonishing number of sweet factories in Liverpool. Now I think about it,
this is obviously because, as the headquarters of Tate & Lyle, Liverpool
was the place through which most of the cane sugar from the Caribbean arrived
in Britain. If it hadn't been for post-war rationing, we'd all have had no
teeth.
Another fact which has only dawned on me
gradually is that many of the makers of sweets I was familiar with as a kid
were Liverpool-based. This is not just because they were local firms who had a
grip on the market - a number of them were nationally famous, and they just
happened to have their factories in the city.
I got involved over the last couple of
weeks in a pleasant exchange of email reminiscences about vintage sweets. I did
a bit of gentle research to find out what happened to such-and-such a maker,
and mostly I learned that the history of
the UK sweet industry is pretty alarming - a lot of hostile takeovers -
and very complicated. I also learned something, at long last, about why Everton
FC are the Toffees.
I've always been familiar with Everton
Mints, which were a hard, black-and-white, humbug-like boiled sweet with a
toffee centre, manufactured by Barker & Dobson, whose factory was in
Everton. B&D, founded in 1834, were big and successful - they made
chocolates and posh biscuits and all sorts - in fact their gift tins still
change hands for decent prices in eBay. It's possible I always assumed that the
football club's nickname had something to do with B&D.
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| B&D factory - Everton, 1960s |
Anyway, it didn't. A lady named Molly
Bushell (1748-1818) started making toffee containing ginger on an open-air stove behind her
cottage in Everton, sometime around 1770, and she became quite successful. At
this time, Everton village was something of a tourist attraction, with splendid views
of the river from the slopes of Everton Hill. As the business grew, Molly was
helped by her daughter, and also by a cousin, Sarah Cooper. In later life, she
appears to have fallen out with Mrs Cooper, who opened a rival shop in Browside
(also Everton). Much later, the remaining interests of these cottage businesses
were taken over by the firm of Noblett's, who from 1876 or so took over the
manufacture and marketing of Everton Toffee. Everton FC came into being in
1878, and the sale of toffees at the games quickly became a tradition, vendors offering
"Mother Noblett's Toffee" inside the ground.
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| Sarah Cooper's toffee shop in Browside - note Everton reserves training in the sloping field opposite |
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| Mother Noblett's Toffee advert - Liverpool Echo |
Tavener-Routledge were another famous
Liverpool sweet maker - their fruit drops were much loved. They too have
disappeared. So - where did they go?
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| The other lot - Liverpool players Ian Callaghan, Phil Thompson, Terry McDermott and John Toshack check out the lollipops during a state visit to Taverner's factory in Edge Lane - 1970s |
Very complicated - a succession of local dinosaurs
ate each other until big national dinosaurs came on the scene and ate everybody
in sight. Barker & Dobson at various times owned the rights to Vicks (cough
sweets?) and Victory V lozenges (which were addictive, since the recipe
contained chloroform - no, really - which had to be changed, of course). B&D
were subsequently bought by a Blackpool firm named Tangerine (not another
football reference?), and later the whole lot was bought out by Bassett's.
You can still buy Everton Mints - these
days they are branded as Bassett's, but I don't think this is quite the same
Bassett's who used to make Liquorice Allsorts and jelly babies in my youth.
Bassett's now is just one of a series of long-established brands acquired by
the Cadbury group. They are most certainly not in Everton!
Only thing I don't understand now is that
there seems to have been a brand of toffee called "Molly Bushell's"
marketed in Australia in fairly recent times. If this is nonsense, and
something I misunderstood, then apologies - it won't be the first time.
| Just a coincidence? Was Molly transported to Oz for damaging people's teeth? Any ideas? |















