Posts have been a bit sparse of late on
this blog. No matter. One thing I had been meaning to say something about was a
recent visit I made with my wife to Liverpool, my birthplace, at the start of
December. We went only for a few days, and we weren't very lucky with the
weather, but it was good fun, and I did a few things - mostly rather silly,
personal things - that I've been meaning to do for years.
I have only one surviving relative in
Liverpool these days - cousin Mark, with whom we met up for dinner one evening
while we were there - so normally there are no pressing reasons to visit the
place, apart from self-indulgence, and my last visit was in 2012. We stayed at
the Campanile, which is very cheap
and cheerful, at the Queen's Dock. We visited the cathedrals (on the wettest
day I can remember) and trogged around the old city centre, with me trying to
recall what old buildings used to be on particular sites in my day. Yes, I know
- how pointless is that?
I have to say that the city is far cleaner
and more prosperous than I remember it, but it is disturbing how much it has
changed - I have a feeling that some of the change has lost a few things as
well. Babies and bath-water come to mind.
I went to have a look at the house where I
was born - well, all right, I wasn't born there at all, I was born at the
Maternity Hospital (in Oxford Street?) like most other people from the South
end, but I lived there from ages zero to 10.
6, Belvidere Road - that's Liverpool 8,
Toxteth, if you insist, but it is certainly among the posher bits of Toxteth,
and I suppose it's more accurate to refer to it as Princes Park. We got the bus
from the city centre to Princes Avenue, and walked down to Belvidere, which had
changed very little (though the houses look better-maintained, and some
charitable soul has replaced the railings and gates, which obviously were not
required to be thrown at Hitler after all).
We had a splendid walk through Princes Park
to Sefton Park, and then through Sefton Park to my grandmother's old house in
Mossley Hill. When I was a kid we used to do this walk (both ways, in fact)
most fine Sundays, and I was keen to see it again. It always seemed an enormous
distance to walk with small children, but in fact it's not nearly as far as I
remembered - probably only a couple of miles each way. It was a fairly dry day, and everything
seemed very fresh and familiar. I haven't walked through Princes Park since the
1960s, I guess, but it hasn't changed much.
From my grandmother's old house we
continued up Penny Lane to Smithdown, had a coffee and took the bus back into
town. That's another one for the bucket shop list - I'm really pleased I did
it, and I don't need to think about it any more!
We also took advantage of our only other
dry day to travel by ferry across the Mersey to Seacombe. Then we walked along
the riverside promenade past Wallasey as far as New Brighton, on the end of the
Wirral Peninsula, complete with the Perch Rock Fort, which Turner painted in
some of his wilder sessions, but the old Tower Ballroom, where as a youth I once saw
Little Richard, is long gone. New Brighton was definitely looking a bit
gone-to-seed - we took the Mersey Railway back under the river to James Street.
Great walk - I was impressed by the number of fishermen on the promenade - when
I lived in those parts there would have been nothing alive to catch in the
Mersey, that's for sure!
On our last evening we went to the
Philharmonic Hall in Hope Street, to see the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic
Orchestra in action. Marvellous. High spot of the concert for me was
Stravinsky's Firebird, which is a
great favourite of mine. The previous occasion on which I was in the Phil
was probably Speech Day in my final year in the Sixth Form at Quarry Bank
School. Hmmm.
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| Over the hills and faraway - travelling south on the M6 over Shap Fell. The Lake District is somewhere over to the right |
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| It still surprises me that Liverpool has become a tourist centre... |
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| Jesse Hartley's old port sometimes doesn't sit well with the new buildings - my father, his two brothers and their dad all worked at Liverpool Docks at various times - I wonder what they'd make of it now |
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| 6 Belvidere Road - my first home - we lived in the top flat (which I think is two apartments now). It looks better maintained now than it was back in my infancy. The street is quite elegant, and hasn't changed a lot, but the labyrinth of little terraces around the back - Miles St, Clevedon St, South St, Hawkstone St and so many others - real Toxteth - has been knocked down and replaced many years ago |
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| Let us not speak of the purple dustbins... |
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| Princes Park - scenes of childhood... |
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| ...and its lake, which once had rowing boats for hire |
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| Linnet Lane - apart from the lack of my kid sister's pram and a few modern cars, looks about the same |
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| Lark Lane - quite arty these days - leads to Aigburth and my old primary school at St Mick's |
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| The cafe in the middle of Sefton Park - seems to have sprouted some modern wings, but recognisably the same place. I think it was painted cream, and I remember there was a Wall's Ice Cream man selling ices from a pedal-tricycle cart here on Sundays. Note the shadow of the Ghost of Christmas Past |
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| The quiet end of Queen's Drive, Mossley Hill - this is the great ring road which loops around the city to Seaforth and Bootle in the North. |
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| My Nan's old house, on the corner of Briardale Road and Herondale. She was still resident here when she died in 1980 - not much has changed, though someone has roofed over her backyard - how very odd? |
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| Sefton Park's celebrated Palm House, a fabulous old facility which has been rescued from vandalism and general wear and tear numerous times over the years |
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| The Peter Pan statue in Sefton Park - one of my earliest memories from childhood; in fact it has been shifted - it is now located near to the Palm House; as far as I remember, it used to be in the flower garden near the big lake. |
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| This is something - very quirky building - Dovedale Road Baptist Church, where my parents were married in 1945. They had met at the youth club here. The building was completed (I think) in 1903, and by the perversity of history it had closed as a church about 6 weeks before our visit! Right opposite was Dovedale Rd Primary School, which included John Lennon and my cousin Dave among its alumni. Yes, I believe the church may have been designed by a madman. |
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| Absolutely - THAT Penny Lane. Lucky to have kept its name - the city council was planning to change the names of all streets in the city which referred to families who were associated with slavery or slave-supported businesses - the plan was shelved when they realised that Penny Lane was one such, and that there would be a great many disappointed tourists if it had been called Nelson Mandela Street instead. |
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| The Lady Chapel in Liverpool Anglican Cathedral. Speak it in whispers, but I was a member of the choir here when I was about 12 - that was until they found out what was wrong with it. |
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| The Royal Iris - the latest of a great many Royal Irises - the ferry for Seacombe (Wallasey) - back in the day, the Seacombe ferry had a white funnel, the Birkenhead ferries had brick-red ones. |
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| Wallasey Town Hall, looming above the River Walk |
Nothing else to do now but wish everyone
all the very best for the New Year. 2018 has definitely been a duff one for
me and my family - we are hoping for rather better in 2019. Once again I regret to
observe that I have been overlooked in the New Year Honours List, but I thought
I'd share with you my great pleasure that John Redwood has been knighted,
presumably for being a pain in the arse for so many years, and for services to
xenophobia. How lovely. Gives me a warm feeling in my stomach - possibly dyspepsia?
***** Late Edit *****
Penny Lane Supplement...
In response to Steve's comment, a couple of old pictures. Penny Lane is an old street in the Allerton area of Liverpool (Liverpool 18, in old money) which runs between Smithdown Place and Greenbank Park. Apart from the fact that it intersects with the road where my Nan used to live(!), it is not all that interesting. On the other hand, "Penny Lane" was the name of the old tram terminus which was at the intersection of Allerton Road, Smithdown Place, Church Road (Wavertree - where the Bluecoat School is), Elm Hall Drive and - well, Penny Lane. The area was known as "Penny Lane", mostly because that was what it said on the front of the trams and buses. As it says in the song, the shelter for the transport terminus is on a roundabout in the middle. That shelter has now been tarted up into a Beatles-themed place. The barber's shop still exists, though back in the 1960s it was owned by Roger Bioletti's granddad (Roger was a year below me at grammar school) - nowadays it, also, lives on the Beatles connection. The main point here is that both the shelter and the barber were, and still are, in Smithdown Place, which is the (sketchy) setting for the song, at the area which has been known for donkeys' years as "Penny Lane", though Penny Lane itself is only one of the streets which runs into that junction.
I may have explained that so brilliantly that even I can't understand it any more. Here are the pictures - all borrowed from elsewhere:
The actual song is a bit of a montage of boyhood memories - some poetic licence in there - the Fire Station is in Mather Avenue - a couple of miles away past Allerton Road, on the way to Garston - on the way, in fact, to McCartney's home at Forthlin Road, which is off Mather Avenue.
All the Beatle-theming and tourist exploitation is probably OK, but ironic to those of us old enough to recall that Liverpool youth in the 1960s was regarded by the local authorities as just as much of a pestilence as you would expect. Visitors today may be directed to the New Cavern in Mathew Street, but they will not see much information about the fact that the council closed the original place down the first real chance they got. Mind you, it was unhygienic and failed every possible H&S test you could think of, but it's nonetheless true that they had regarded it, and places like it, as blots on the official presentation of Liverpool the Commercial City (and former Second City of the Empire, if anyone could remember that). That particular rubber stamp must have been banged down with a lot of satisfaction. How times change. How attitudes are re-engineered to suit.
Slavery and Beat Clubs - choose your viewpoint to fit the times in which you live!
***********************
***** Late Edit *****
Penny Lane Supplement...
In response to Steve's comment, a couple of old pictures. Penny Lane is an old street in the Allerton area of Liverpool (Liverpool 18, in old money) which runs between Smithdown Place and Greenbank Park. Apart from the fact that it intersects with the road where my Nan used to live(!), it is not all that interesting. On the other hand, "Penny Lane" was the name of the old tram terminus which was at the intersection of Allerton Road, Smithdown Place, Church Road (Wavertree - where the Bluecoat School is), Elm Hall Drive and - well, Penny Lane. The area was known as "Penny Lane", mostly because that was what it said on the front of the trams and buses. As it says in the song, the shelter for the transport terminus is on a roundabout in the middle. That shelter has now been tarted up into a Beatles-themed place. The barber's shop still exists, though back in the 1960s it was owned by Roger Bioletti's granddad (Roger was a year below me at grammar school) - nowadays it, also, lives on the Beatles connection. The main point here is that both the shelter and the barber were, and still are, in Smithdown Place, which is the (sketchy) setting for the song, at the area which has been known for donkeys' years as "Penny Lane", though Penny Lane itself is only one of the streets which runs into that junction.
I may have explained that so brilliantly that even I can't understand it any more. Here are the pictures - all borrowed from elsewhere:
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| Bioletti's barber shop, Smithdown Place, 1960s |
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| The shelter, in 1956 - looking in exactly the opposite direction to previous photo - this time looking along Allerton Road - the barber's shop must be just off the left edge of the picture |
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| Somewhat later view of the shelter - circa 1970? - here we are looking towards Church Road, with Allerton Rd off to the right and Smithdown to the left, and Penny Lane itself directly behind us. |
All the Beatle-theming and tourist exploitation is probably OK, but ironic to those of us old enough to recall that Liverpool youth in the 1960s was regarded by the local authorities as just as much of a pestilence as you would expect. Visitors today may be directed to the New Cavern in Mathew Street, but they will not see much information about the fact that the council closed the original place down the first real chance they got. Mind you, it was unhygienic and failed every possible H&S test you could think of, but it's nonetheless true that they had regarded it, and places like it, as blots on the official presentation of Liverpool the Commercial City (and former Second City of the Empire, if anyone could remember that). That particular rubber stamp must have been banged down with a lot of satisfaction. How times change. How attitudes are re-engineered to suit.
Slavery and Beat Clubs - choose your viewpoint to fit the times in which you live!
***********************
